naturalstrength Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Bending a g8 6x1/4" or a 7x1/4" square bar reverse style???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyWeight Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) Definitely the G8. I can take the 7x1/4 square well beyond 40 degrees in one hit in 1.25" wraps, but the G8 took me four hits to move 38ish degrees. There's also a considerable amount of springiness to the G8 where I don't think there is hardly any at all with the square. Edited September 1, 2009 by easyWeight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) The G8 will "normally" be harder - I have had some Mutant square stock though. The square at 6" will be closer to the G8 I think. Steel just varies so much - it's really hard to say. Edited September 1, 2009 by climber511 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpmmkrahling Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 the G8's vary as well as the steel. The only way to tell is to have each one calibrated, but according to Eric's list the G8 is harder. Or are you questioning how the length affects the bend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumpster Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I'm going to side with the Grade 8 also. I've done the 7" square but the Grade 8 is still kicking my butt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naturalstrength Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 It's intersting how many advocate the 1/4x7" as the bridge between the g8 and the red nail for DO bending, but how it appears to be "reversed" for reverse????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumpster Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 It's intersting how many advocate the 1/4x7" as the bridge between the g8 and the red nail for DO bending, but how it appears to be "reversed" for reverse????? Yeah, I've read that several times but it hasn't really worked for me. I got the 1/4"x 7" square in Nov last year but the Bastard is still way too hard for me. Maybe I got easy square and hard bastards but it still seems like a huge gap. Maybe stainless square would be a better bridge for DO but I've never tried it. Many seem to have trouble with the 7" length DO and feel stronger with shorter stock. I find the longer bars more comfortable in reverse (I've done reverse bends up to 8.5" without it feeling awkward - DO would be really weird at that length). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyWeight Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) It's intersting how many advocate the 1/4x7" as the bridge between the g8 and the red nail for DO bending, but how it appears to be "reversed" for reverse????? I guess I've never heard anyone say that before. The G8 is harder all around than the 7" square. IMO, it's at least as difficult to kink as a Red Nail and a bit harder to crush. Although, I'll find out for certain when I eventually attempt to reverse a Red. Like someone said earlier, the 6" square is pretty close to the 6" G8, but the crush is still a bit easier IMO. Edited September 2, 2009 by easyWeight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim71 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I've got some square stock that is mutant level as well. I really thought I had slipped alot in my strength but then realized what the deal is. Bastard level bend for sure. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.sides Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Grade 8 definitely. As a side note, I have alot of square stock from speedymetals that has been breaking near the end of the bend (when its almost to 2 inches regardless of starting length) Anyone had this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpmmkrahling Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 I just tried a 7" red tonight reverse style and all i got was a slight wobble. And i just killed the 6" x 1/4" G8 the other day reverse. It is really weird how the length can make such a difference. The red was calibrates at 420 and the g8 was around 460. I i would have thought the red would have fallen but it didn't. so a 1/4" square should be easier then the G8 but now i don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bencrush Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 I just tried a 7" red tonight reverse style and all i got was a slight wobble. And i just killed the 6" x 1/4" G8 the other day reverse. It is really weird how the length can make such a difference. The red was calibrates at 420 and the g8 was around 460. I i would have thought the red would have fallen but it didn't. so a 1/4" square should be easier then the G8 but now i don't know. Remember Mike that the length and calibrations go hand-in-hand, but not like you're comparing them. You can compare a 7" piece with a 7" piece, but not really with a 6" piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyWeight Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 (edited) I just tried a 7" red tonight reverse style and all i got was a slight wobble. And i just killed the 6" x 1/4" G8 the other day reverse. It is really weird how the length can make such a difference. The red was calibrates at 420 and the g8 was around 460. I i would have thought the red would have fallen but it didn't. so a 1/4" square should be easier then the G8 but now i don't know. Remember Mike that the length and calibrations go hand-in-hand, but not like you're comparing them. You can compare a 7" piece with a 7" piece, but not really with a 6" piece. I know this is what everyone says, but it simply doesn't make any sense. 100 lbs = 100 lbs no matter if it's a 20" plate of cast iron or a smaller misshapen ingot of lead. It is the same with steel bars. The calibration process itself is evidence of that. The fact that a 6" piece calibrates more than a 7" piece should accurately predict the outcome of the 7" piece based on the bender's previous experience with a 6" piece. Especially while using the reverse style which firmly places the fulcrum point at near center of the bar. Not only has the 7" piece calibrated less the bender also has the advantage of another 1/2" of leverage on each end. Either there is some other force at work that I'm unaware of or the calibration method is somehow flawed. Edited September 5, 2009 by easyWeight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bencrush Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 I'm tired right now or I'd really give it a long, drawn-out attempt, haha. I have reversed a few Bastards and one 5.5" G8. The G8 seemed harder, but I have a hard time with anything shorter than 7" on reverse. Honestly, I had a hard time with any length on reverse since it torqued my right bicep and forearm constantly. Anyway, I tried some 8" bends of stock that would calibrate around 450lbs at the 8" length and got barely any movement at all out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyWeight Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 (edited) I'm tired right now or I'd really give it a long, drawn-out attempt, haha. I have reversed a few Bastards and one 5.5" G8. The G8 seemed harder, but I have a hard time with anything shorter than 7" on reverse. Honestly, I had a hard time with any length on reverse since it torqued my right bicep and forearm constantly. Anyway, I tried some 8" bends of stock that would calibrate around 450lbs at the 8" length and got barely any movement at all out of it. I'm tired too No rush for a response. I understand the shorter G8 being more difficult with reverse. I makes sense that you're losing leverage the shorter you go. From a DO perspective, I can also understand how longer pieces can seem more difficult due to ROM, flexibility and anatomical issues. However, reverse seems to me to be a purely leveraged bend that relies much less on flexibility than DO does and is easy to position no matter the length of the bar. So it begs the question, how can a longer and lessor calibrator piece be more difficult? If you're wrapping it, holding and bending it the same exact way the numbers and added leverage should speak for themselves. I would imagine also that any length of bar that has ends that pass a certain point in your hand would no longer provide you with the full benefit of the added leverage as you wouldn't be able to apply force to the ends as well if you still had your wraps near the center of the bar. Edited September 5, 2009 by easyWeight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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