Littleninja Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I have a hangboard, but I don't know how to use it well. I am a climber, so I want to have good grip strength for holding on to tiny holds. Help please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maidenfan Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Ok I'll bite. If you want to get good at rock climbing, climbing rocks is the best way to do that. If you have a climbing board, start climbing on it, doing pull-ups on it, static holds, etc - simple as that. I have a set of the Metolius Rock Rings which I use from time to time - works the fingers great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littleninja Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 Ok I'll bite. If you want to get good at rock climbing, climbing rocks is the best way to do that. If you have a climbing board, start climbing on it, doing pull-ups on it, static holds, etc - simple as that. I have a set of the Metolius Rock Rings which I use from time to time - works the fingers great. Well, how? Like how to workout your forearms on it, like hang here then there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I don't know what board you have but Metolius used to put out a booklet with theirs with routines etc. Pretty basically you train it with progressive resistance like anything else. Start with hangs and different chins on large holds - work into medium holds - then to small holds - use band assistance if necessary in the beginning and add weight as needed when you get stronger - I wrote a short article quite a while back you might read also. What level do you currently lead at? http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtopic=17836 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickZ726 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I have a hangboard, but I don't know how to use it well. I am a climber, so I want to have good grip strength for holding on to tiny holds.Help please. Hey there ninja, Always good to have another climber on the board. If your a boulder/sports climber doing hard/steep stuff then check out this page http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Training%20data.htm These guys make the best hangboard in my opinion and have some great training ideas... but just take it slow on your board. Over using it can be an easy way to pop a tendon, so just listen to your body. Remember the tendons in your fingers that you are trying to strengthen take about 6 times longer to strengthen then muscles. Have fun and train hard! Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littleninja Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 I don't know what board you have but Metolius used to put out a booklet with theirs with routines etc. Pretty basically you train it with progressive resistance like anything else. Start with hangs and different chins on large holds - work into medium holds - then to small holds - use band assistance if necessary in the beginning and add weight as needed when you get stronger - I wrote a short article quite a while back you might read also. What level do you currently lead at? http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtopic=17836 I boulder mostly (small town, no official ratings), and I can hold onto a slanted hold that is 1.5 in deep and the slant (hypotenuse) is 2 in for few seconds. I have the grill hangboard (not grillito). Go to the center top, go down to the second hold. That's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zammer Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Here's a start... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littleninja Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 How about (with 2-3 min rests between sets, 2 times a week) Sloper holdx3 sloped crimp holdx3 sloper holdx3 sloped crimp holdx3 sloper holdx3 sloped crimp holdx3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coombsfh Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Was just about to link the beastmaker site... I have not got one but know someone who does and he has noticed gains galore after doing their routines (and some of his own... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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