Beev Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Hey folks. Who has used the CoC Miles to Mils Key? how do you rate it? is it an essential piece of equipment? Is it just a tool for measuring how close (or far, depending on how you look at it) you are to closing your challenge gripper? I was thinking maybe it would be useful as a way to overcrush your challenge gripper maybe? Say you are 4-6 mm away from the #3 for example (im not, its just an example), you could set the gripper and close it at 8-10mm using the key and crush it for all its worth as in a normal overcrush. As soon as the key drops, you know your grip has started to give the same way you would when you overcrush your working gripper with a washer or with a warm up gripper and a gap strap. Am I thinking that the Miles to mils is more useful than it actually is or am I on the right track? Yours, Beev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAU1985 Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I can only speak for myself but I feel that it is a waste of money and just a way for IM to make more $$$$ from people, but if you have the extra bills lying around and you think it would help you then buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indiladhar Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 personally i would also say its not a necessity. ive found my grip grew best following 3 simple rules: 1. heavy negatives. 2. consistency. 3. not worrying too much about how far the handles are. if you gave it your all, it was a good workout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae_yogi Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Looks like a waste to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Crunk Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 For measuring how closer you are I like gluing pennies together and then gluing or taping them to the gripper and using that as my goal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indiladhar Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 For measuring how closer you are I like gluing pennies together and then gluing or taping them to the gripper and using that as my goal. i have an ever so slightly less accurate way of measuring. it goes something like this: indi *attempts to close gripper* indi: is it closed?!?! IS IT CLOSED?! *goes marching towards brother/friend who is also in the gym, and lets them have a look* brother/friend: "nah, it aint closed" indi: "did i get further than last time?" brother/friend: "yes" / "no" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico300zx Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 You could say: "is the "friggin" closed?" rico Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbcx6pmw Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I had a similar idea a while back and made a few small blocks of wood of varying thickness from 5 to 20mm that I could overcrush a gripper against. Also you can 'microload' it this way by shaving a bit off each time. You could also drill a hole and thread some string through to hang weight off. Most importantly it's free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grippster Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Listen for the click. That's how you know Or for me, the handles are flat on the insides after I crush them. That's how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamTGlass Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 You could say: "is the "friggin" closed?"rico Best Answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerryg Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Save your money, super glue pennies together to measure your gap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd80s Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Try this mate, you'll save some money and it works. http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtopic=25275 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beev Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Nice suggestion lloyd. So im guessing the idea behind your method is you use the magnets to prevent the grippers full closure, and overcrushing your challenge gripper at a position where you can close it to. So incrementally you build the strength in your hand to handle the pressure the gripper needs to be closed? Yours, Beev Try this mate, you'll save some money and it works.http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtopic=25275 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd80s Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Nice suggestion lloyd.So im guessing the idea behind your method is you use the magnets to prevent the grippers full closure, and overcrushing your challenge gripper at a position where you can close it to. So incrementally you build the strength in your hand to handle the pressure the gripper needs to be closed? Yours, Beev Try this mate, you'll save some money and it works.http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtopic=25275 No mate, it doesn't mean the magnets are stopping the gripper from closing. The discs are stopping it from closing as the touch. You could use any disks, coins even. Magnets work though as they stay in place and don't fall down the gripper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beev Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 Yeah thats what I was thinking, I just worded it badly . So effectively you are using the magnets to reduce the range of motion of the gripper. So you close it on 4 magnets its 12mm short, when you are at the point where you cn close the gripper easily up to the 4 magnets, you remove a magnet taking it down to about 9mm. That last 3mm is like a new challenge, forcing another 3mm out of the gripper, but when you manage it you are closer to closing the gripper completely. My only question is how well does it work after you have got the gripper handles beyond parallel to each other and the space at the top of the gripper handles is wider than the width between the bottom of the handles? Do you move he magnets further down the handles? Yours, Beev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd80s Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Yeah thats what I was thinking, I just worded it badly . So effectively you are using the magnets to reduce the range of motion of the gripper. So you close it on 4 magnets its 12mm short, when you are at the point where you cn close the gripper easily up to the 4 magnets, you remove a magnet taking it down to about 9mm. That last 3mm is like a new challenge, forcing another 3mm out of the gripper, but when you manage it you are closer to closing the gripper completely.My only question is how well does it work after you have got the gripper handles beyond parallel to each other and the space at the top of the gripper handles is wider than the width between the bottom of the handles? Do you move he magnets further down the handles? Yours, Beev If you look at the photos in my gallery you'll see just how this works beyond parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nockowt1 Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I bought one just to help regulate the distance I set the gripper too and it's more of a hassle than anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popeye76 Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 i think its a waste of money,the penny thing is a good idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beev Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 Lloyd, I looked through the gallery, and I cant figure how it works, any chance of a run down? Thanks. Beev Yeah thats what I was thinking, I just worded it badly . So effectively you are using the magnets to reduce the range of motion of the gripper. So you close it on 4 magnets its 12mm short, when you are at the point where you cn close the gripper easily up to the 4 magnets, you remove a magnet taking it down to about 9mm. That last 3mm is like a new challenge, forcing another 3mm out of the gripper, but when you manage it you are closer to closing the gripper completely.My only question is how well does it work after you have got the gripper handles beyond parallel to each other and the space at the top of the gripper handles is wider than the width between the bottom of the handles? Do you move he magnets further down the handles? Yours, Beev If you look at the photos in my gallery you'll see just how this works beyond parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bencrush Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 It's been said before, but I agree. Glue pennies together and take the money you'd spend on that to buy another gripper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lone Wolf Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 If you really want to get technical with this just go to Kragen or Autozone and buy a set of feeler gauges and it would probably still be cheaper than going to IM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Lipinski Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Here is another idea I use for telling "is it closed?"- I put black tape around the bottom of one handle, and smear chalk on the inside of another. You can tell if you closed the gripper when there is a fresh chalk print. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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