First Braced Bends

[foxyj75]

Casey, I think one of the most important aspects of double pad bending is to make sure they are:

1. TIGHT!!!!! And with chalk! If the pads aren't squeaking around on the bar and difficult to move, they're not tight enough.

2. STRAIGHT!!! The end of the wrap on the bar side should look like it was cut with a saw perfectly square.

3. BAR POSITIONING!!! Try having about 1/2''-1'' of bar inside the wrap. Don't be afraid to experiment with positioning.

These two things should make a huge difference in your double-pad endeavors. Hope this helps!

[vikingsrule92]

Casey, I think one of the most important aspects of double pad bending is to make sure they are:

1. TIGHT!!!!! And with chalk! If the pads aren't squeaking around on the bar and difficult to move, they're not tight enough.

2. STRAIGHT!!! The end of the wrap on the bar side should look like it was cut with a saw perfectly square.

3. BAR POSITIONING!!! Try having about 1/2''-1'' of bar inside the wrap. Don't be afraid to experiment with positioning.

These two things should make a huge difference in your double-pad endeavors. Hope this helps!

Fox, I think most would disagree with you on #3. Most people, hell 95-99% of benders put about 1.5"-2" inside the wrap. I can never figure out how you can get the kink much less the sweep with no bar inside the pads.

[foxyj75]

Casey, I think one of the most important aspects of double pad bending is to make sure they are:

1. TIGHT!!!!! And with chalk! If the pads aren't squeaking around on the bar and difficult to move, they're not tight enough.

2. STRAIGHT!!! The end of the wrap on the bar side should look like it was cut with a saw perfectly square.

3. BAR POSITIONING!!! Try having about 1/2''-1'' of bar inside the wrap. Don't be afraid to experiment with positioning.

These two things should make a huge difference in your double-pad endeavors. Hope this helps!

Wow. For some reason, I thought you were referring to DO bending. Excuse my ignorance please.

[foxyj75]

Casey, I think one of the most important aspects of double pad bending is to make sure they are:

1. TIGHT!!!!! And with chalk! If the pads aren't squeaking around on the bar and difficult to move, they're not tight enough.

2. STRAIGHT!!! The end of the wrap on the bar side should look like it was cut with a saw perfectly square.

3. BAR POSITIONING!!! Try having about 1/2''-1'' of bar inside the wrap. Don't be afraid to experiment with positioning.

These two things should make a huge difference in your double-pad endeavors. Hope this helps!

Wow. For some reason, I thought you were referring to DO bending. Excuse my ignorance please.

1 and 2 do apply to braced bending though. Sloppy wraps = wasted and mis-directed power.

[vikingsrule92]

Casey, I think one of the most important aspects of double pad bending is to make sure they are:

1. TIGHT!!!!! And with chalk! If the pads aren't squeaking around on the bar and difficult to move, they're not tight enough.

2. STRAIGHT!!! The end of the wrap on the bar side should look like it was cut with a saw perfectly square.

3. BAR POSITIONING!!! Try having about 1/2''-1'' of bar inside the wrap. Don't be afraid to experiment with positioning.

These two things should make a huge difference in your double-pad endeavors. Hope this helps!

Wow. For some reason, I thought you were referring to DO bending. Excuse my ignorance please.

1 and 2 do apply to braced bending though. Sloppy wraps = wasted and mis-directed power.

I was talking about in general. No one that I've seen but you out only .5-1" of the bar in the wraps with DO. But yeah you are definitely correct about #1 and 2

[justiceislost1988]

We've all got different shaped hands and various little differences. If you ever get to the point where you need more padding, your hands will tell you about it.

Great bending and welcome to the highly addictive braced bending!

Tim

Casey, I think one of the most important aspects of double pad bending is to make sure they are:

1. TIGHT!!!!! And with chalk! If the pads aren't squeaking around on the bar and difficult to move, they're not tight enough.

2. STRAIGHT!!! The end of the wrap on the bar side should look like it was cut with a saw perfectly square.

3. BAR POSITIONING!!! Try having about 1/2''-1'' of bar inside the wrap. Don't be afraid to experiment with positioning.

These two things should make a huge difference in your double-pad endeavors. Hope this helps!

thanks a lot guys and tim that's a perfect point and thank you for the compliments even though my bends are pretty mediocre at best and fox i stopped having my problem with double wrapping after we settled our differences and i really have no problem with it but i prefer to use the same hand positioning as gazza and pat i keep right at 2" in the wraps and i always grab as far on the bar as i can because i don't like any leverage to aid in my bending but i'm sure those tips would also apply to single wraps and my wraps are always really loose and usually not perfectly straight so maybe it will help my DO thanks a lot fox!

[justiceislost1988]

i finished the 30" x 5/8" and i did a 1/4" x 7" square from 45 degrees today i was wondering what the hard part is supposed to be with the square? i didn't have much trouble finishing it at all so i'm assuming it is the kink?

[Tim71]

I agree with Fox that loose pads, whether they be single or double, definately wastes energy. Like running with your shoes untied.

That is definately important with braced bending too especially the spikes. Loose wraps lets the point dig in and possibly pierce through. That = bad news.

Great job on the 1/4 square too. That's a solid bend. I think the kink was always supposed to be the hardest part. The stainless seemed like the kink was easier to me but the crush of course was harder.

Later,

tim

[timiacobucci]

On the square Tim? I thought the crushdown especially on the cut down square was killer. The 5" x 1/4" square is still the hardest thing I have crushed unbraced.

I will say though that it has allot to do with the degree of bend the square wants to take and the 7" isn't getting into that range too much I don't think. You will certainly notice it with the 6", or you have a very strong crush I would say.

I would say you can at least crush a bastard if you can crush an fbbc 6" x 1/4" square.

[vikingsrule92]

On the square Tim? I thought the crushdown especially on the cut down square was killer. The 5" x 1/4" square is still the hardest thing I have crushed unbraced.

I will say though that it has allot to do with the degree of bend the square wants to take and the 7" isn't getting into that range too much I don't think. You will certainly notice it with the 6", or you have a very strong crush I would say.

I would say you can at least crush a bastard if you can crush an fbbc 6" x 1/4" square.

For the 7" Square I'd say the kink is DEFINITELY harder!! 6" and shorter the crush is by far harder, for the 6.5" I'd say they were fairly equal.

[justiceislost1988]

i can crush 7" x 5/16" without a whole lot of trouble at all my kink is just terrible

[gazza]

Great bending Casey i like how you are very much trying to keep tradition in with your bending.

[justiceislost1988]

Great bending Casey i like how you are very much trying to keep tradition in with your bending.

thanks a lot gazza that is a big compliment especially from you

[timiacobucci]

For real, the kink is always gonna be harder in IM pads. Well unless you are super flexible like David Wigren bending 10" spikes unbraced. Or you are bending 4" stainless like Gazza.